Cycling Tour Around Taihu Lake

(Note: All images in this blog post are the original files and retain their EXIF data. Readers can download the images to obtain the location, time, and camera model used for the shots.)

For our trip, we selected the dates: October 27–30, 2023, a total of four days. The weather was clear and rain-free throughout, with temperatures ranging from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius, making it very pleasant. There was a light breeze, and we enjoyed a tailwind for the first three days. On the first day, we cycled south, and it happened to be cloudy.

During these four days, the first and fourth days were weekdays. We primarily cycled on urban roads to avoid traffic peaks, while the two days in between were spent cycling around the lake.

Day 1 Morning: Suzhou Country Garden Yunqi Yishan -> Suzhou Bay Dreamland Water World

The distance was about 30 km. Since we were on city roads with many traffic lights, the ride took over two hours.

Passing by the Wujiang sluice gate, I noticed that the water level of Lake Taihu and the river here did not seem to be the same.

When we reached the Suzhen-Tao Highway, we really got stuck. One of the traffic lights there has a green light of less than 10 seconds, so it’s impossible to accelerate from a bicycle in time... Even so, the Suzhen-Tao Highway is still full of cars everywhere. I feel a pedestrian overpass would be much more appropriate here.

We looked for a lunch spot near the Suzhou Bay Dream Water World. But we quickly realized there was nothing around the water world. The nearest commercial area was in a village five kilometers away.

So we cycled through the village roads for quite a while. The road is apparently called Kaifa Road (Development Road). It has quite a Venetian vibe: you can board a boat right from your doorstep.

Finally, we found a Wallace’s in the village. It should be the Wallace’s Wanping Branch #2, which isn’t too far from the Suzhen-Tao Highway.

Day 1 Afternoon: Suzhou Bay Dream Water World -> Mingkang Hui Taihu Agricultural Center

After finishing our meal, we headed back along the development road to the Sutongli Highway. Seeing a neat row of trees lining the roadside, we decided to ride over and take a look.

There were almost no cars on this road, yet it seemed to be called "Y903". Cycling here was truly a delight; we didn't have to slow down at all. Cruising at 30 km/h was effortless.

At the end of this smooth stretch, the road forked, and I realized that I had actually been riding on the motor vehicle lane the whole time. However, since there were no cars, it was perfectly safe.

On the first day, the weather in Suzhou was somewhat overcast with high humidity, but since we were heading south directly into the sun, it wasn't hot at all.

At the fork, we chose the bike lane with better scenery, although it was a bit longer. Since we had been cruising at high speed for a while, we took a short break here.

Subsequently, the roads merged, and the elegant small paths disappeared, replaced by the Sutongli Highway for the entire stretch. We encountered many people selling oranges, likely intended for drivers. The ride was a bit monotonous, but with few non-motorized vehicles, we were able to maintain our cruising speed throughout.

Ah! Once we left the city, electric scooters became rare, and the cycling experience became excellent. We no longer had to worry nervously about those reckless riders who drive against traffic or dart around erratically.

As we kept cycling, we entered a village. We noticed some strange markers by the roadside. After examining them, we concluded they were likely used to delineate fishing zones.

Taihu Lake has a lot of blue-green algae. We saw quite a few workers cleaning them along the shore. We all agreed that this was the result of water eutrophication.

After riding 40 kilometers, we quickly realized that the hotels here were very far away. Although we had only planned to ride to the Huzhou border on the first day, there were no nearby hotels. The only one was 10 kilometers away. So we entered Huzhou.

We took village routes the whole way. It was fine during the day, but cycling at night felt dangerous. We encountered a strange scarecrow by the roadside:

Stayed at: Huzhou Zhili Junchen Licheng Hotel

This hotel stands out for one feature: software-defined. There were dozens of switches densely arranged by the bedside, allowing control over whether the bathroom glass was transparent or not. It felt like I paid for features I didn't need... Cost was 310 yuan.

There are many restaurants nearby, but don't eat at the "Authentic Anhui Beef Noodle" place. Even after adding chili for a long time, there was no spicy oil aroma, just plain hard heat.

Day 2 Morning: Mingkang Hui Taihu Agricultural Center -> Changxing Taihu Museum

I got up early and had breakfast at the hotel, which was quite good. I couldn't help but wish the quality of the company cafeteria's food was as good as this.

I still had to travel along rural dirt roads to get back to the main highway, but the scenery along the way was pleasant. It seems these villages are involved in crab farming and some textile industries.

Just before reaching the Lake Tai Circular Road, I came across a very beautiful tower and a large field of sunflowers.

Right next to it was the Huanlu Sluice. After checking the map, I realized, oh, this is actually the Mingkanghui Lake Tai Agricultural Center.

After passing this spot, I entered the Lake Tai Circular Road. The weather was clear the next day, and for the first time, I saw so many islands in the middle of Lake Tai. Since the mist had cleared, the islands felt close enough to touch.

This was the best cycling experience of the entire journey. The scenery was refreshing and pleasant, the weather was clear, there were few cars on the road, and I encountered many cycling groups.

The city center of Huzhou was at the end of the continuous road. Cycling towards it felt full of anticipation.

Before long, I arrived in Huzhou and saw the Big Toilet Seat...

It seems like the Dragon Dream project is in development behind us... but the cityscape of Huzhou far exceeded my expectations.

A bus stop in Huzhou. It was Saturday, and it didn't feel particularly crowded; most of the people around were from cycling groups.

After cycling through this section, Huzhou unlocks an incredibly rideable route: Binhu Avenue.

The entire Binhu Avenue appears to be specifically designed for cycling. We essentially left Huzhou using just this one road. The ride was very smooth, with no obstacles, no electric scooters, no traffic lights, and no bridges requiring uphill or downhill climbs.

Kudos to Huzhou! Our trip left us with a truly favorable impression of the city!

After arriving at the Changxing Taihu Museum, we found a noodle shop called Qiangxia Noodle House. The mixed noodles there were absolutely delicious! (Though it might have been because we were starving.)

Day 2 Afternoon: Changxing Taihu Museum -> Yixing Taihu Sunshine Resort

Where Binhu Avenue ends, it seems to be the edge of Huzhou. Here, we stumbled upon a fascinating spot: Taihu Scenery.

Warning: Do not be tempted by the lake view to take the right-hand path, or you’ll end up riding into a village under construction and face the most difficult stretch of road imaginable.

After wandering through this dusty village for 20 minutes, we finally found our way out. Here, we joined a road called “Provincial Highway 230.”

We thought we’d only be on Provincial Highway 230 for a short while before returning to the lakeside. Little did we know that we would remain on this road for the next several dozen kilometers…

Although Provincial Highway 230 is easy to ride, the scenery here is naturally not as beautiful as the lakeside. Upon closer inspection, it turned out that the best views along the lake were reserved for the expressway! Bicycles don’t deserve to see the scenery!

However, after riding for a while, we reached the foot of a mountain. Its name is surprisingly “Xiangshan.” It seems this is the “Xiangshan Changxing Edition.” There’s a rest room at the top, and the chairs are actually bolted to the ground! We simply chatted, had some tea, and enjoyed the lake view.

Leaving Changxing and arriving in Yixing, we saw a boundary marker. Who would have thought we’d be back in Jiangsu Province so quickly?

Then I came across a toll station on the provincial road... I'm really confused here. Does the local traffic management department expect to make money by charging tolls on provincial roads? The road was clearly built to expand logistics and trade to attract investment. Why build a toll station that can only collect a small amount of money per day, thereby increasing transportation costs? If they need to generate revenue, wouldn't it be better to check for illegal parking along the roadside?

Stayed at: Yixing Zhuque Gate Hotel

This is a budget hotel with average conditions, and they assigned us to the attic room. But... the view is truly amazing!

Morning of Day 3: Yixing Taihu Sunshine Resort -> Yixing Fifth People's Hospital

I woke up a bit late, so I combined breakfast and lunch. I casually picked a noodle shop in Yixing, and it was decent.

Then I started the long journey on Provincial Road S230:

The long provincial road trip... Along the way, I felt pain in my waist, legs, and hands. I think the bicycle is not very ergonomic. I often needed to take breaks.

Day 3 Afternoon: Yixing Fifth People's Hospital -> Wuxi Taihu Yuantouzhu Scenic Area

I came across an amazing competition on the road; it looked like a kite festival. Because of the event, there were a lot of cars, and many drivers parked directly on the side of the road, occupying the non-motorized vehicle lane.

Parking must have been insufficient. As a result, I had no choice but to ride through the narrow gap between the non-motorized vehicle lane and the motor vehicle lane, while worrying that people might get out of their cars and walk through that same narrow space...

It was a kite competition, and I felt like I was seeing some truly unique kites:

Quite a few people had come to camp in their cars:

According to my plan, I was supposed to continue riding along S230 and call it a day. But unfortunately, the bad luck struck: a nail blew out my tire...

There were plenty of tire repair shops around, but after asking around, none of them would repair bicycle tires. I guess the materials needed for car tires are too different from those for bicycles... The nearest electric scooter repair shop was 1.4 kilometers away, so I ended up carrying my bicycle for 1.4 kilometers... What a special forces soldier I am...

Fixing the tire only cost me 8 yuan, but I spent 15 yuan on snacks and water at a shop across the street...

After that, my route turned east instead of north. The road was mostly rural, and occasionally I came across some interesting scenery:

I just kept riding and riding. I met a few other cyclists on the road, and they all asked where I was headed. I told them I was going to Suzhou.

As I continued along S230 towards the Da Lie Zui Bridge, I noticed the sun was about to set. Since the view here is open and expansive, I decided to stop and capture the sunset!

There are so many people who park their cars irresponsibly. They always block the entire non-motorized vehicle lane, forcing cyclists to merge into the motor vehicle lane. On the Huan Taihu Avenue, the speed of motor vehicles is quite high.

It must be because the scenery here is so beautiful that many people stop to stay and capture the view:

If I am not mistaken, that must be Lingshan in the distance:

Beautiful things fade so quickly. I barely had any rest before the sunset was over. Then, the most nightmare-like part of the journey began...

The S230 provincial road on the north side of the Shiba Wan Wetland Park was packed with all kinds of vehicles. Perhaps everyone had finished camping, as there was almost no space in the bicycle lane. The cycling experience here can only be described as dangerous, with high-density motor vehicles, electric scooters, and pedestrians walking between the motor and non-motorized lanes everywhere. Weaving through them was truly a game of life and death.

Finally, after ending this terrifying journey, I arrived in Wuxi:

Wuxi is simply the least friendly city for cycling. They apparently don't even bother to build proper bicycle lanes along the roadside, merging them directly with the pedestrian walkways... The speed here is such that you can't even maintain 17 km/h, requiring you to dodge pedestrians the entire way.

At a certain spot along the lakeside road, you can catch a glimpse of the lake view. At night, the lights of Shutian Pavilion shine as bright and clear as moonlight.

Accommodation: Wuxi Garden Hotel

Estimated cost: 330 yuan.

Day 4: Wuxi Taihu Yuan Tou Zhu Scenic Area -> Yinshan Lake

The journey offered no scenery worth seeing. It was entirely urban roads, and the distance wasn't short (75 km).

We had breakfast at this grand hotel. I have to admit, the hotel's dining hall is truly excellent. They serve egg tarts, fried eggs, bread, pomelo, bacon, stir-fried rice noodles, fried rice, steamed buns, apple juice, pastries...

On the way, we deliberately took a detour in Wuxi to enjoy Li Lake Park. But we soon realized we should have skipped it... The paths in this park are either steep uphill or steep downhill, making cycling exhausting.

The environment in Xinwu District of Wuxi is decent, and the cycling experience is good. It just feels sparsely populated, yet the density of traffic lights is surprisingly high.

We came across a factory that appeared to be processing scrap steel.

A power plant. The location where this photo was taken is directly south of Sunan Shuofang Airport.

Arrived in Suzhou!

The endless roads of Suzhou...

Although the scenery along the way was beautiful, I was exhausted beyond measure...

Finally, we reached Xietang:

I feel like the sunset in Suzhou was the perfect reward for this four-day trip around Lake Tai...

Returning to the familiar Guoxiang, gradually merging back into my daily routine, the last four days felt like a lifetime ago, as if a century had passed...

Although nothing major happened, I experienced quite a bit of pain and joy, and ultimately fulfilled a lifelong achievement I had always wanted: cycling around Lake Tai.

Hehe, 300 kilometers isn't that far!